Indoor Drytooling: A Framework for Gyms
A comprehensive guide for gym owners to safely incorporate drytooling
Drytooling and mixed climbing are growing sports in the USA. As a natural progression in climbing, these sports are increasingly being brought inside to the climbing gym. With a little bit of effort, most gyms can create an environment safe for both drytoolers and other users. This document is a guide for how gyms can incorporate drytooling, and can aid in the creation of an official policy.
Safety
Safety is often one of the major concerns for gyms who are considering offering drytooling. These safety concerns can be mitigated with a few simple policies.
Helmets
- Mandatory for all climbers drytooling on a rope (toproping or leading)
- Recommended for bouldering (not mandatory)
- Not necessary for belayers when tethers are used
- Mandatory for belayers when tools drop to floor
- All helmets must be rated for climbing
Falling Tools
Free Falliing Tools
Allowing tools to drop all the way to the ground can be easily managed by some gyms. It is the safest option for the climber and is often the best option for a competition setting.
- n area should be cordoned off as an area only for belayers and climbers wearing helmets.
- This area should include all floor space that is directly below a climbing route.
- On most climbing gym floors, the tools do not bounce more than a few inches.
Tethers
Tethers are one of the easiest solutions to prevent the tools from hurting a person or damaging the floor. While it is an easy solution, it can reduce the quality of the experience for a drytooler, as well as, slightly increase the possibility of a drytooler being hit by their own tools.
- When toproping, it is recommended that the tethers be connected to the climber’s end of the rope rather than directly to the harness.
- When tethers are connected directly to the harness, a fall when the tools are hooked on a hold can cause the tools to slingshot toward the drytooler.
- If the tethers are connected to the rope, the drytooler can fall any distance and likely not knock the tools off of the holds they are hooked on.
- When attaching the tethers to the toprope, make sure that you use a small locking carabiner that will not slide below the tie in knot.
- When leading, the tethers should be connected directly to the harness.
Nets
Nets can be used to stop tools from hitting floors and people below. This solution is most commonly used in a competition setting.
Protecting the Climbing Wall
Plywood sheets and backer plates are often used to protect the climbing wall. Volumes designated specifically for drytooling can also be used to stop the tools from touching the climbing wall. When crampons are allowed in gyms, plywood sheets and volumes protect the wall and are used for kicking footholds and
What Are Backer Plates?
Backer plates are commonly made out of plywood, hardwood, carpet and plastic and are placed between the climbing hold and the climbing wall. A properly placed backer plate will stop the pick and head of the ice climbing tool from touching the climbing wall.
Materials
- Plywood (¼" recommended)
- Hardwood
- Plastic (HDPE)
- Carpet
Common Sizes
- 6" × 6" squares with ⅜" center hole (standard holds)
- 6" × 9" rectangles (steins, Yang-Gaps)
- Variety of shapes and sizes for different hold types
Route Setting Considerations
Holds
Standard Climbing Holds
A variety of hold styles, from homemade wood holds to manufactured drytooling holds, can be used for drytooling. Normal climbing holds work well, but are often softer than drytooling holds and will fall apart faster than a drytooling hold. Normal climbing holds with harder plastics do last longer than softer holds. It can be effective to drill holes into large or unfeatured holds to create places or the tool picks.
Drytooling-Specific Holds
Drytooling-specific holds have exploded in popularity in recent years, with numerous varieties featuring innovative materials and creative pick placements. A wide range of materials is now available, including plastic, steel, aluminum, natural rock, and hybrid combinations of two or more of these.
Available from specialized manufacturers:
Creative Options
- Drill holes into large or unfeatured holds for tool picks
- Hockey pucks, Ice Holdz, high-density foam
- Homemade wood holds
Creative holds add fun and uniqueness but don't always translate to outdoor mixed climbing skills.
Wall Angle & Difficulty
Overhanging Terrain
Moderate to difficult drytooling routes often require overhanging walls.
Beginner Routes
- Place holds close together
- Include good footholds
- Help climbers learn to trust the tools
Advanced Routes
- Place holds far apart (drytoolers have significant reach)
- Larger moves increase difficulty
- Utilize steeper overhangs
Alternatives to Drytooling
Lower-impact options for gyms concerned about wall damage
Rubbering
Rubbering is a training method for ice and mixed climbing where standard ice tool picks are replaced with specialized ones featuring a flat surface coated in sticky rubber. They are designed for indoor use on plastic holds without damage.
Pros
- Enables safe, hold-friendly indoor training on climbing walls or home setups.
- Provides high friction and control, helping build strength, endurance relevant to ice/mixed climbing.
Cons
- Shares many of the same safety risks as drytooling (e.g., falls, tool handling dangers).
- Does little to develop precise technique, as tool placements and body movement differ significantly from real drytooling or mixed climbing on rock/ice.
- Rubber wears out over time and may require replacement.
Looping
Loop-tool drytooling (also called lasso or hook-style training) uses specialized indoor training tools with a cord or stiff rubber loop at the tip instead of a sharp pick. The loop hooks over standard climbing holds, allowing safe drytooling-style movement in rock gyms without damaging holds or requiring dedicated drytooling setups
Pros
- Completely gym-safe and hold-friendly—no risk of puncturing plastic holds or mats.
- Builds grip strength, shoulder endurance, core power, and some pulling/locking-off strength relevant to ice and mixed climbing.
- Enables off-season or year-round indoor training on existing routes or boulders, mimicking hooking motions on positive holds.
Cons
- Does little to develop precise technique, as the loop placement and body dynamics differ significantly from real pick placements in drytooling or mixed climbing.
- Limited to specific hold types (e.g., positive edges, knobs, or incuts) that the loop can securely fit over—slopers, pinches, or small crimps often don't work well.
- Often requires route-setting adjustments or dedicated sections for effective use, reducing versatility on standard gym problems.
Bottom Line — While alternatives reduce wall wear, true drytooling with proper backer plates provides the most authentic training and technique development for outdoor ice climbing and drytooling.
Gyms That Offer Indoor Drytooling
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